pol's guide to quiet power steering
Moderators: jifflemon, coyote1980, Rachel
pol's guide to quiet power steering
Well did something i've been meaning to try for a while now and so far it's worked very well. Making my power steering stop sounding like a clubbed seal.
Here's all I had to do:
1) Get down Volvo and buy some £7.20(ish) ATF fluid for the power steering. Give them the year and model etc and they'll look up the type. (It's the pink stuff).
2) Open the bonet and locate the power steering reservoir.
3) Disconnect the hose on the side of the reservoir (the return feed), and connect a suitable container to collect the oil (I made a bit of a mess).
4) Start the engine and make sure you are catching all the oil.
5) Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times to pump out the juice. (Probably easier with the wheels raised)
6) Stop the engine
7) Refit the return hose
8 ) Top up reservoir with new oil to max mark
9) Turn steering wheel lock to lock several times
10) Start the engine
11) top up reservoir
12) Turn steering wheel lock to lock a few times again.
Keep doing the last few steps until the reservoir level doesn't drop anymore.
Job done.
pol
Here's all I had to do:
1) Get down Volvo and buy some £7.20(ish) ATF fluid for the power steering. Give them the year and model etc and they'll look up the type. (It's the pink stuff).
2) Open the bonet and locate the power steering reservoir.
3) Disconnect the hose on the side of the reservoir (the return feed), and connect a suitable container to collect the oil (I made a bit of a mess).
4) Start the engine and make sure you are catching all the oil.
5) Turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times to pump out the juice. (Probably easier with the wheels raised)
6) Stop the engine
7) Refit the return hose
8 ) Top up reservoir with new oil to max mark
9) Turn steering wheel lock to lock several times
10) Start the engine
11) top up reservoir
12) Turn steering wheel lock to lock a few times again.
Keep doing the last few steps until the reservoir level doesn't drop anymore.
Job done.
pol
Last edited by pol on Fri Apr 09, 2004 12:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Perhaps even cheaper.....use transmission oil (the red kind)... Never had to get everything out just topping it off did the trick twice for me.
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and it is a good idea to run the power steering pump with no oil ?
maybe this is the way it should go.... maybe, I hope for you. (how do things like v*dis, haynes or vraagbaak discribe the changing of the oil ? )
I think its best to use original oil, as thats what the seals are built for, and also the viscosity (the thickness of the fluid)
anyways thanks pol
maybe this is the way it should go.... maybe, I hope for you. (how do things like v*dis, haynes or vraagbaak discribe the changing of the oil ? )
I think its best to use original oil, as thats what the seals are built for, and also the viscosity (the thickness of the fluid)
anyways thanks pol
luck,
JPF
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JPF
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Well haynes describes no way of bleeding the system. All it says is that bleeding is only required when a part of the system has been removed. Their method for bleeding is just topping up what has been lost.
I'm sure it can do no harm, especially with the wheels off the ground the system is under little strain. Air just replaces the fluid, then vice-versa.
Good luck john, I found a wine bottle was a good catcher in the end. Got to catch 0.7 litres so a bottle of some sort is good. I bought a can of 'Gunk' afterwards as i'd 'oiled' everything!
I used the original Volvo stuff as reccomended by someone on this forum (forget who, sorry) who said other types didn't help, but topping up with Volvo stuff cured it - The type code Volvo gave me was 'AF4G'. Just standard ATF oil - The pink stuff...
Anyway, my power steering is quiet now so i'm very pleased and would reccomend it to anyone with the noisy steering.
pol
I'm sure it can do no harm, especially with the wheels off the ground the system is under little strain. Air just replaces the fluid, then vice-versa.
Good luck john, I found a wine bottle was a good catcher in the end. Got to catch 0.7 litres so a bottle of some sort is good. I bought a can of 'Gunk' afterwards as i'd 'oiled' everything!
I used the original Volvo stuff as reccomended by someone on this forum (forget who, sorry) who said other types didn't help, but topping up with Volvo stuff cured it - The type code Volvo gave me was 'AF4G'. Just standard ATF oil - The pink stuff...
Anyway, my power steering is quiet now so i'm very pleased and would reccomend it to anyone with the noisy steering.
pol
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VADIS doesn't say anything about draining the steering system, other than "Disconnect the delivery line on the pump and collect the escaping fluid."
This is what is has to say about re-filling it:
Fill the power steering hydraulic fluid reservoir and bleed the hydraulic system
Fill the fluid reservoir of the power steering pump.
Turn the steering wheel from left to right and top–up the fluid reservoir while turning the wheel.
Start the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and keep the hydraulic fluid level topped–up.
Turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly from lock to lock a few times.
Take the vehicle for a test drive and check the steering gear for correct functioning and for abnormal noise.
Check the fluid level and top–up as necessary to the correct level. Switch off the engine.
Fluid: ATF type A/A.
Note! if the hydraulic fluid has a light (milky) colour, this indicates the presence of too much air; in this case wait until the fluid has regained its normal colour before driving the vehicle.
Models with air–conditioning
Install the hydraulic power steering pump
Locate the pump together with the brackets and fit and tighten the pivot bolt with hand pressure only.
Fit the adjusting nut.
Ben.
This is what is has to say about re-filling it:
Fill the power steering hydraulic fluid reservoir and bleed the hydraulic system
Fill the fluid reservoir of the power steering pump.
Turn the steering wheel from left to right and top–up the fluid reservoir while turning the wheel.
Start the engine, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and keep the hydraulic fluid level topped–up.
Turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly from lock to lock a few times.
Take the vehicle for a test drive and check the steering gear for correct functioning and for abnormal noise.
Check the fluid level and top–up as necessary to the correct level. Switch off the engine.
Fluid: ATF type A/A.
Note! if the hydraulic fluid has a light (milky) colour, this indicates the presence of too much air; in this case wait until the fluid has regained its normal colour before driving the vehicle.
Models with air–conditioning
Install the hydraulic power steering pump
Locate the pump together with the brackets and fit and tighten the pivot bolt with hand pressure only.
Fit the adjusting nut.
Ben.
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2009-Onwards ... 1991 MK1 Eunos Roadster
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2009-Onwards ... 1991 MK1 Eunos Roadster
2013-Onwards ... 1997 Subaru Impreza Turbo 2000 (Wagon)
Didn't realise VADIS had detailed stuff like that. Thought it was just pics and part codes...
Oh well...
If you have a look at where the feed / return lines on the pump are, you'll see why I disconnected the return at the reservoir! Not much room down there.
If you dont run the engine and pump, I doubt much old fluid will escape.
pol
Oh well...
If you have a look at where the feed / return lines on the pump are, you'll see why I disconnected the return at the reservoir! Not much room down there.
If you dont run the engine and pump, I doubt much old fluid will escape.
pol
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- coyote1980
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Don't pour the ATF out of the system with the engine running
The ATF pump will be broken if it has to work dry...
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found an interesting paper on vadis...explains a lot about what it is etc.john hotchkiss wrote:guys soz for sounding a wee bit daft but what is and where do i get this vadis
NOT A DL LINK!!
http://www.viktoria.se/~danne/Paper/VADIS_PA4.pdf
purely info on what it is and does etc
regards
rob
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for those who don't know where and what:
http://www.autocd.com/autocd.html
or read
http://www.vvspy.com/frameset.php?bn=volvospy_general
yeah, thanks..
http://www.autocd.com/autocd.html
or read
http://www.vvspy.com/frameset.php?bn=volvospy_general
yeah, thanks..
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'86 480 ES, RIP :(
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'93 480 2.0, RIP :(
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.
Well finally did my change of fluid today also,the Pol method prevailed!
Drives beautifully now,helped by having new front shockers just put in on the weekend!
I added abouthalf a teacup of Lubegard to the ATF to preserve it.I was probably doing the wrong thing here,as Im about to check if they do a power steering aditive.Im 99% sure they do!
But hey!No noises and old fluid was,after 102k,only a kinda Flame Red!
Drives beautifully now,helped by having new front shockers just put in on the weekend!
I added abouthalf a teacup of Lubegard to the ATF to preserve it.I was probably doing the wrong thing here,as Im about to check if they do a power steering aditive.Im 99% sure they do!
But hey!No noises and old fluid was,after 102k,only a kinda Flame Red!
I'm No Longer Here :(
http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=34359&start=20
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Hello Mate!
I used an unbranded Dexron 2 type,Dexron 3 is also okay.I added some Lubegard Transmission protectant to that ATF.
She's feeling good still!
Steve.
I used an unbranded Dexron 2 type,Dexron 3 is also okay.I added some Lubegard Transmission protectant to that ATF.
She's feeling good still!
Steve.
I'm No Longer Here :(
http://www.volvo-480-europe.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=34359&start=20
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