Does your 480 have tracking-problems? Does your car pull to one side? Or is your steering wheel vibrating? Read the posts in this category to find out what's going on.
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:10 pm
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pol
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by pol » Thu Jul 16, 2009 8:43 pm
Jim if I were you I'd call Volvo and order some new nuts and bolts for the strut. Maybe for the stub axle for good measure, and angle grind the old ones off.
Save yourself the stress. I've had to do that once.
Pol
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:22 pm
how do you get the caliper bolts out without destroying the caliper?
![Surprised :eek:](./images/smilies/eek.gif)
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Ben Harris
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by Ben Harris » Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:49 pm
Just to add possibly more misery, if the nearside driveshaft has come out, you might find the 'spider bearing' (not sure of it's official name) that the driveshaft slots into, has also 'come apart'. This happened with my 480 when I fitted my lowering springs, resulting in the driveshaft not going back in centrally, and me having to replace the bearing.
Hope that hasn't happened!
Ben.
1998-2003 ... 1981 Austin Mini City
2003-2005 ... 1989 Volvo 480 ES (B18E)
2004-2006 ... 1994 Volvo 480 ES (B20F)
2006-2008 ... 1995 Mitsuibshi FTO GPX
2008-2008 ... 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Auto (with RichMod)
2009-Onwards ... 1991 MK1 Eunos Roadster
2013-Onwards ... 1997 Subaru Impreza Turbo 2000 (Wagon)
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Ben Harris
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by Ben Harris » Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:50 pm
pol wrote:Jim if I were you I'd call Volvo and order some new nuts and bolts for the strut. Maybe for the stub axle for good measure, and angle grind the old ones off.
Save yourself the stress. I've had to do that once.
Pol
Same here - good old angle grinders! I think I just replaced the nuts and bolts with standard ones (probably high tensile), from my local tools/metalwork shop. Volvo wanted some silly price for the official nuts and bolts if I remember rightly!
1998-2003 ... 1981 Austin Mini City
2003-2005 ... 1989 Volvo 480 ES (B18E)
2004-2006 ... 1994 Volvo 480 ES (B20F)
2006-2008 ... 1995 Mitsuibshi FTO GPX
2008-2008 ... 1994 Volvo 480 Turbo Auto (with RichMod)
2009-Onwards ... 1991 MK1 Eunos Roadster
2013-Onwards ... 1997 Subaru Impreza Turbo 2000 (Wagon)
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pol
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by pol » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:46 am
You shouldn't need to remove the caliper to change the driveshaft.
I suggest grinding off the stub axle > suspension strut bolts. This will be easy and is quite a satisfying fix! The sides of the stub axle are machined flat. Its fairly obvious to see when the bolt has had enough grinding.
Not sure what's wrong with your caliper bolts but if you have to remove them, make sure you use a decent (6 sided) socket and a long extension bar. Do not use normal star shaped sockets or you will round them off. Even if they are a bit rounded, the flat sided socket may still get it. Use a bit of heat also.
The volvo original nuts and bolts are very strong and the nuts are locking as they are slightly squashed. The nearest replacements I could find from hardware places are nyloc and all very soft. I'd get the volvo ones unless you know of a good place to get toughened nuts and bolts from...
pol
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:50 am
guess is all go now just going out to get a small grinder mines is way too big
pol have posted on your dor thread
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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pol
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by pol » Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:59 pm
Cheers Jim, and i've replied!
Good luck with the grinding!
pol
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ted clutch
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by ted clutch » Fri Jul 17, 2009 9:02 pm
jim i am understanding you are trying to get the lower ball joint nut off just below the drive shaft.i replaced mine a few months ago and couldnt remember how i got them off last time.i tried using an open ended spanner (halfords proffesional range) as they are so close to the drive-shaft couldnt get the ring end in.the open end just kept slipping. i then took an angle grinder and thinned out the ring spanner end in a curved shape so it was thin enough to go over the threads.it came undone easily then,nowhere near as tight as it felt with the open end. for the rest of the bolts a long tube over the open end of a ring spanner got them off soft as butter. better to use a tube with a ring spanner rather than a ratchet because it is more inline and doesnt try to twist itself off the bolt head.
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Fri Jul 17, 2009 11:49 pm
Ha Ha did it
meesa happy bunny.
tidied up and had tea at 10 to twelve.
Thanks Pol everything went well.
Now to sort out the ruff running tomorrow. Rock n roll good buddies
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/wink.gif)
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DaKyy
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by DaKyy » Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:15 am
I had a similar problem once. Only I angle grinded both sides of the lower ball joint off. Then try to figure out how to tap the pin out when the driveshaft is on top and that is the side you have to tap it out...
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
[url=http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/ahti.peura/Volvo480ES1987RestorationProject#][img]http://www.ihku.org/~dakyy/signature.jpg[/img][/url]
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Sat Jul 18, 2009 10:02 am
Dont you just love hese little cars
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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pol
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by pol » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:21 am
Glad to hear it!
Didi you need to grind them off then?
pol
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pol
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by pol » Sat Jul 18, 2009 11:21 am
Dont you just love hese little cars Very Happy
-Yes.
pol
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Sat Jul 18, 2009 12:52 pm
yes ground the buggers off and sorted out the rough running as well just have to adjust handbrake
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
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carl
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by carl » Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:36 pm
DaKyy wrote:I had a similar problem once. Only I angle grinded both sides of the lower ball joint off. Then try to figure out how to tap the pin out when the driveshaft is on top and that is the side you have to tap it out...
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
we did this yesterday with a 30 ton press, haven taken the hub completely off an grinded the old wish bone ball joint part off then pressed out the tappered pin.
Volvo C30 is guilty of plagiarism!!!!!!!!
[img]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e279/thisismyminiadventure/2008/09-14-08_Volvo/05.jpg[/img]
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spree
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by spree » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:59 pm
Oh god.....
My near side drive shaft is ticking when I turn left so I need to swap it with the one off the car that I am breaking.
My car is an auto and the other one's a manual. Will it fit?
Any advice for me! By reading this thread I'm now scared!
I don't have an angle grinder.....
![Sad :-(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Sat Oct 15, 2011 10:21 pm
I dont think it will fit. there have been a number of posts about this but cant remember where/when.
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spree
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by spree » Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:36 pm
glasgowjim wrote:I dont think it will fit. there have been a number of posts about this but cant remember where/when.
ah never mind.....
Well I need one then...Do you have one Jim?
Or if it is just the outer bearing that needs changing then this should do right?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRIVESHAFT-CV ... 1767wt_956
But then I would also need new cv boot, hub nut and a couple of other nuts that are just meant to be used once right?
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glasgowjim
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by glasgowjim » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:36 am
At hard lock in one particular direction you hear a clear knocking sound the cv joint/bearing is gone.
Yes you will need the special use once bolts , cv boot oh and spring compressors.
I dont have any spares driveshafts left
![Crying :cry:](./images/smilies/cry.gif)
for sale.