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Paint application help please
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:36 am
by alfonzobonzo
anyone give me a crash course in quick fix paint application
IE, a suitable colour match for a 1994 metalic black
spray cans please.
smallish areas
which primer / undercoat /
and tips for blending the finished paint job into the old
complete novice at this so all help appreciated, if it all go's tits up I'll take it to a paint shop, but NOT untill then
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:07 am
by stu chacks
Try get the paint from Volvo - Halfrauds never seems quite right. Rub down area to be sprayed with 800 then 1000 wet&dry with soapy water.
Mask off, degrease, takrag and spray. Shouldn't need primer unless going down to bare metal.
When totally dry remove masking tape and cut back using 1200 wet and dry with soapy water again - depending what paint is used polish back using a compound (like a fine t-cut) then polish & wax.
Good luck, but don't expect miracles out of a can - you can only get a really good job on older cars by doing the whole panel with spray gun normally. Worth a try though for sure. 
Stu.
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:23 am
by alfonzobonzo
thanks Stu
yes, some bare metal
whats takrag, and where do i get?
& thanks fu the other info
info..... paint #305 from volvo £11.20 +vat
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:00 am
by stu chacks
No probs, I did a classic car restoration course (years ago mind!), when I was into MG's/etc and can just about remember most of the lessons, including paint luckily!
If anyone's into that kind of thing you can do them as part-time courses too I think - covers all the basics of bodywork/paint/mechanics/autoelectrics etc. And is a good laugh too.
Takrag = a tacky rag (avail from most auto stores/paint shops), and you run it over the area to be sprayed just prior to applying paint - it removes any dust/etc from the surface. If it's bare metal your spraying onto then yes, use a primer 1st - just remember to keep using wet&dry paper between coats (with soapy water, cleaning off with clean water and degreasing afterwards).
Interesting you can get the aerosols direct from Volvo - might give my ES a try where the laquer is peeling as quoted £300 to respray the drivers side from local garage. Or might just put a big Starsky&Hutch stripe down it, that would cover the affected area and be loads cheaper aswell, hmmmm..... 
Post some piccies of the finished result for us to see anyway!
Stu.
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:48 am
by alfonzobonzo
Gonna pick up the paint this lunch time,
Pic's!!!
Now the pressures on, hehe
****UPDATE****
got paint
comes as a kit
150ml black
150ml clear laquer
not bad
Also made a rash decision & bought a bran, spank de' new , shiny black antenna mast, 21 notes +vat
so even from volvo it was cheaper than from that gimp on ebay, hehe
WARNING, LOADS O' PICS
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:24 am
by alfonzobonzo
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:09 am
by chris1roll
Well done! metallics are always a shit to get right
Looks like a nice job from the pics.
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 11:25 am
by stu chacks
N1 Alfonzo! That's saved you a few quid. Should try to get my peeling laquer resprayed this summer on the ES. Getting tired of parking the drivers side next to walls/hedges etc (all peeing is drivers side only!).
Stu.
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 2:47 pm
by alfonzobonzo
a?
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 2:48 pm
by alfonzobonzo
thats all that was left of the dammage caused by running into that pesky landrover
just abit duller than the origional at the mo' but once its been polished, should be un noticable, i reckon.
now its just the bottom of both doors, rear arches & a few other random spots of rust to deal with. gonna wait till i'm in the new house for that tho', will have double garrage then
will be much easier
Don't forget to compound/cut back before laquer coat
Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:15 am
by stu chacks
Just sprayed my 'Lee Spoiler' using the Volvo spray kit last week. The paint was just enought for 2 good coats (wish they did a bigger can). See what you mean about the dull finsh when dry though Alfonzo (due to using aerosol rather than proper set up/mixture).
However.... if you cut back using a compound (avail at any bodyshop/autopaint store - similar to T-cut but not as course) once the paint if fully hardened, you'll soon see the shine come through aswell as making the paint coating 'harder'.
Only then should you laquer it as you won't actually be polishing the paint otherwise, only polishing the laquer if you know what I mean.
Try it when you do your other touch ups and you'll see what I mean - will post some piccies of when I do the laquer damage on the ES this next week or two. Bloody good colour match though aren't they?
Stu.
Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:34 pm
by ebdl
On the subject of paint application... my sills need a bit of tidying up. Does anyone know how to get the textured protective coating back that was applied at the factory? I'm going to have to sand away the rust that's crept in, which will undoubtedly leave me with a smooth, unprotected surface. If it's difficult/impossible to get hold of the right stuff, I've been considering using some hammered-finish black Hammerite - this should be pretty hardwearing and won't show up too much given that my car's black anyway (metallic).
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Ed
Re: Don't forget to compound/cut back before laquer coat
Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 2:06 pm
by alfonzobonzo
stu chacks wrote:
However.... if you cut back using a compound (avail at any bodyshop/autopaint store - similar to T-cut but not as course) once the paint if fully hardened, you'll soon see the shine come through aswell as making the paint coating 'harder'.
Only then should you laquer it as you won't actually be polishing the paint otherwise, only polishing the laquer if you know what I mean.
Try it when you do your other touch ups and you'll see what I mean - will post some piccies of when I do the laquer damage on the ES this next week or two. Bloody good colour match though aren't they?
Stu.
Ahh, top tips, cheers
