Cambelt change
Moderators: jifflemon, coyote1980, Rachel
Cambelt change
For this job you better get a proper toolkit. Cos in here you need different things. Get a new cambelt, alighment wheel, and tensioner. If you need to change the alternator and aircon/powersteering belt then get these things to.
Firs you need to remove the aircon/powersteering belt.
For that remove the top powersteering pump pulley cover
Next loosen the frontright wheel polts and lift the car up. Secure it with jackstands and as a safety feature, remove the wheel and but it under the car. Just in case the jackstand fails.
Now remove the dirt/tust cover from the wheelwell to access the cranshaft pulley. Remove the aircon and power steering belt.
Take out the polt just under the engine numberplate
Rotate the engine using a wrench and a 19mm socket. So the timingmark on the cambelt cover lines up. It can be seen as a hole on top or the cambelt cover that has a point in the middle. Next try to but 7 or 7,5 mm drippbit in to the hole from the side of the engine. It should go right in and lock the cranshaft. If it doesn't have your friend turn the engine slow and easy that thing in to place. To turn the engone easyer remove sparkplugs.
Now mark the camtiming mark on the engine side cover so that you can see it from the cambelt side. It is very important. I did this mistake not marking it and had to do some extra work because of that. Now remove the cambelt cover.
Remove the cam belt. Then the pulleys that don't have teeth (there are 2, the tentsioner and an alighment wheel ) and replace with the new. Removal is some what a difficult, but can be done. Its a tricky job, cos there isn't a lot of space. I suggest removing the rear polt of the engine dampner and turning it up and away form your way and removing the powerteering oil reservar from its place. Just to give you more space.
Then but in the new wheels (2 of them)But on a new cambelt. First but on the bottom, then the alighment wheel, after that the cam. Now comes to play the mark you did on the cambelt cover. Cos you need to get the cambelt pulley to the right place. But to get on the blet nice and tight. Turn the cambelt pulley 1 tooth forward. But the cambelt on to the pulley and turn it back so its tight and doesn't move back any more (remember you locked the carnshaft to place with the drillbit). It now scould line up the mark on the campulley and the mark on the cambelt cover. This also gives you enough slack in the belt to but in the tensioner. But the locknut on it but tont tighten it full. Only that much so it can still move on the bolt. To tighten up the tensioner. But it in its place. Get a strong and long screwdriver and use it as a lever on the rear side on the tensioner. Get the cambelt nice and tight (if you press on it it shouldn't move more than a few mm. Let your friend tighten the locknut full. PS. After a couple of hundred miles, retighten the tensioner as the cambelt streches a little when new. Sorry for not having pics of this stage. my hands where full
Now the order is reversed to but things back together. And do but a new copper washer on the polt you removed under the engine number belt.
Firs you need to remove the aircon/powersteering belt.
For that remove the top powersteering pump pulley cover
Next loosen the frontright wheel polts and lift the car up. Secure it with jackstands and as a safety feature, remove the wheel and but it under the car. Just in case the jackstand fails.
Now remove the dirt/tust cover from the wheelwell to access the cranshaft pulley. Remove the aircon and power steering belt.
Take out the polt just under the engine numberplate
Rotate the engine using a wrench and a 19mm socket. So the timingmark on the cambelt cover lines up. It can be seen as a hole on top or the cambelt cover that has a point in the middle. Next try to but 7 or 7,5 mm drippbit in to the hole from the side of the engine. It should go right in and lock the cranshaft. If it doesn't have your friend turn the engine slow and easy that thing in to place. To turn the engone easyer remove sparkplugs.
Now mark the camtiming mark on the engine side cover so that you can see it from the cambelt side. It is very important. I did this mistake not marking it and had to do some extra work because of that. Now remove the cambelt cover.
Remove the cam belt. Then the pulleys that don't have teeth (there are 2, the tentsioner and an alighment wheel ) and replace with the new. Removal is some what a difficult, but can be done. Its a tricky job, cos there isn't a lot of space. I suggest removing the rear polt of the engine dampner and turning it up and away form your way and removing the powerteering oil reservar from its place. Just to give you more space.
Then but in the new wheels (2 of them)But on a new cambelt. First but on the bottom, then the alighment wheel, after that the cam. Now comes to play the mark you did on the cambelt cover. Cos you need to get the cambelt pulley to the right place. But to get on the blet nice and tight. Turn the cambelt pulley 1 tooth forward. But the cambelt on to the pulley and turn it back so its tight and doesn't move back any more (remember you locked the carnshaft to place with the drillbit). It now scould line up the mark on the campulley and the mark on the cambelt cover. This also gives you enough slack in the belt to but in the tensioner. But the locknut on it but tont tighten it full. Only that much so it can still move on the bolt. To tighten up the tensioner. But it in its place. Get a strong and long screwdriver and use it as a lever on the rear side on the tensioner. Get the cambelt nice and tight (if you press on it it shouldn't move more than a few mm. Let your friend tighten the locknut full. PS. After a couple of hundred miles, retighten the tensioner as the cambelt streches a little when new. Sorry for not having pics of this stage. my hands where full
Now the order is reversed to but things back together. And do but a new copper washer on the polt you removed under the engine number belt.
1996 850R 2.0 T5 - "Beebi R"
1994 480 Turbo - RichMod - sold to get the R
1992 850 2,5 20V - sold to get the R
1987 744 TIC - Haas Tuning - totaled by BMW
1973 142 GL B20E - sold
1994 480 Turbo - RichMod - sold to get the R
1992 850 2,5 20V - sold to get the R
1987 744 TIC - Haas Tuning - totaled by BMW
1973 142 GL B20E - sold
- Paul240480
- Knows where Volvo is from
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I meant to post here a while ago, when I changed my belt. Brill guide! Was my second cambelt change & first on my own (the other being on my 240 much easier & with an expert to hand).
Great post which helped me loads.
Great post which helped me loads.
Paul240480
www.gitessouthbrittany.com
[img]http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk165/Paul480/EarlyEveningMidOct-LaBelleVilaine.jpg[/img][img]http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk165/Paul480/RocketPhotos009-1.jpg[/img]
www.gitessouthbrittanytouring.blogspot.com
www.gitessouthbrittany.com
[img]http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk165/Paul480/EarlyEveningMidOct-LaBelleVilaine.jpg[/img][img]http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk165/Paul480/RocketPhotos009-1.jpg[/img]
www.gitessouthbrittanytouring.blogspot.com
- martinholmesuk
- Friend of Club 480 Europe
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Re: Cambelt change
One little remark,
Maybe I missed it, but to use a screwdriver to adjust the tensioner ?
On the rearside of the timing belt cover (the side that points at the passenger) there is a hole with thread, I think M8 or M10.
By screwing a M8 or M10 bolt in, you adjust the tension, and when good, locking the nut and get that tensioning bolt out.
Greetz
Maybe I missed it, but to use a screwdriver to adjust the tensioner ?
On the rearside of the timing belt cover (the side that points at the passenger) there is a hole with thread, I think M8 or M10.
By screwing a M8 or M10 bolt in, you adjust the tension, and when good, locking the nut and get that tensioning bolt out.
Greetz
Flamered GT-Turbo 09-1995, Yellow Koni's, Intrax springs,Palm Beach,rear speakers,middle arm rest,Roboumod,Vega's, CT 906 radio/cd with 850 R amplifier, Pioneer speakers allround.
Hausser front and rear bumper, Black Diamond sport clutch, lightened flywheel, flowed head.Audi TT recirc.Stainless Cat replacement, K&N airfilter,Magnecor KV85,NGK colder plugs.
Soon ; Audi/VW calippers, 280mm Renault Sport brake discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.
New project : 1987 Silver 480 with B18E engine
Hausser front and rear bumper, Black Diamond sport clutch, lightened flywheel, flowed head.Audi TT recirc.Stainless Cat replacement, K&N airfilter,Magnecor KV85,NGK colder plugs.
Soon ; Audi/VW calippers, 280mm Renault Sport brake discs and Ferodo DS2500 pads.
New project : 1987 Silver 480 with B18E engine
Re: Cambelt change
Yes but if the car is righthand drive the brake master cylinder makes using a bolt virtually impossible !V480TI wrote:One little remark,
Maybe I missed it, but to use a screwdriver to adjust the tensioner ?
On the rearside of the timing belt cover (the side that points at the passenger) there is a hole with thread, I think M8 or M10.
By screwing a M8 or M10 bolt in, you adjust the tension, and when good, locking the nut and get that tensioning bolt out.
Greetz
Large screwdriver seems the only option for RHD...unless anyone else knows a better method...
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
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- Location: Northants
Re: Cambelt change
The tensioner set screw hole is M6 by the way. The bolt you use will need to have about 30mm of thread. If you do not have a suitable bolt then the auxillary belt tension set screw found by tyhe alternator does nicely
O.C. 480 D.
Re: Cambelt change
I do not see any pictures (anymore?) - have these been deleted or do I have a problem in my pc?
To be continued...
Peter
-----------------------------
1986 Volvo 480es red 217
1987 Volvo 480es blue 219 (sold)
1993 Volvo 480 turbo automatic red 235 (project)
Peter
-----------------------------
1986 Volvo 480es red 217
1987 Volvo 480es blue 219 (sold)
1993 Volvo 480 turbo automatic red 235 (project)
-
- Can tell where the 480 was built
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:33 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
Re: Cambelt change
Cant see them either so its not just you.
Was looking the other day myself as I think mine is due at next service.
Was looking the other day myself as I think mine is due at next service.
Current:
480 ES Auto 1989
480 Celebration 187
480 ES Auto 1991
CLK430 Conv 2001
Hyundai i10 2015
480 ES Auto 1989
480 Celebration 187
480 ES Auto 1991
CLK430 Conv 2001
Hyundai i10 2015
- glasgowjim
- 480 Is my middle name
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- Location: GLASGOW SCOTLAND
Re: Cambelt change
Have sent a message to Aibast requesting that he reinstates the photos if possible.
GJ mod
GJ mod
- doingitsideways
- 480 Expert
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- Location: Manchester
Re: Cambelt change
Possibly doubtful Jim...
He's not been on here for nearly 3 years!
Steve
He's not been on here for nearly 3 years!
Steve
"If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical fault!"
Hammers can't fix a 480!!!
Hammers can't fix a 480!!!
- glasgowjim
- 480 Is my middle name
- Posts: 4830
- Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 5:28 pm
- Location: GLASGOW SCOTLAND
Re: Cambelt change
didnt just pm him I emailed as well
- jamesy12345
- 480 Veteran
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- Location: Durham, England
Re: Cambelt change
Current:
Volvo S60 '04
Renault 21 '91
Subaru Legacy '05
Mazda RX-7 '93
Renault 5 '84
Previous:
440 2 litre, 440 Turbo, 460 Turbo, 480 Turbo x2, 854 T-5R, S40 T4, V40 T4, S70 T5 & R, V70 R x2, S60 R
Volvo S60 '04
Renault 21 '91
Subaru Legacy '05
Mazda RX-7 '93
Renault 5 '84
Previous:
440 2 litre, 440 Turbo, 460 Turbo, 480 Turbo x2, 854 T-5R, S40 T4, V40 T4, S70 T5 & R, V70 R x2, S60 R
- doingitsideways
- 480 Expert
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- Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 8:55 pm
- Location: Manchester
Re: Cambelt change
Ah, fair enough...
I stand corrected, off to the naughty step for me!!
Lol
Steve
I stand corrected, off to the naughty step for me!!
Lol
Steve
"If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical fault!"
Hammers can't fix a 480!!!
Hammers can't fix a 480!!!