Volvo 480 Club Europe

Not sure if this is the right forum to post this --- i just want to know if any of you have experienced any engine problems using the HOLTS RADweld solution to patch up a leaking rad.

Is this product save to use on my rad ? My rad has sprung a leak due to age (i'm assuming)

My first metro had a leaking radiator used radweld and it sorted it out for a bit its a quick fix not a solution.

Solution = buy a new radiator

I poured two bottles into my Xantia to cure a leaking heater matrix. - To get at that you need to basically strip the whole front of the car. Its been in for a few months now with no problems.

Seem to remember reading that theres better ones out there...that was on frenchcars.co.uk forum though i think.

Again, its a fix more than a solution...i don't much care about the xantia long term.

Having a problem with a leek in the coolant system myself at the moment on the es. My Garage told me NOT to use RadWeld, something about the design of the Renault Engines particulary disagrees with it apparently, far too technical for me to understand, however he generally knows his stuff. Surley a new Radiator (or second hand one) shouldn't be too expensive and your going to need it in the long term anyhow.

I'd go new rad mate! I heard someone used pepper to seal a leak.

Thanks guys for your opinion --- i asked my uncle this afternoon and he too was concerned that this radweld product could end up sending some small metal particles into the engine --- that alone was enough to keep me at bay with throwing that stuff in --- MGB_GT however has made me fear throwing in that stuff.

I knew it as being a temporary fix and in fact i have my eyes on a few suppliers of new rads. monday i'm off to checkout this second hand one and if my mechanic gives it the thumbs up, i think i go for it. A new one here costs around £230 so i'll prob either buy this second hand one or just buy one off ebay.

Below are some pictures of the 2nd hand rad...

If your second hand one does not cost much it may be worth a go. It looks as though there has been some leaks - the white stuff, but probably external - from the rubber pipes. Look very carefully at the bottom corners of the rad for signs of leaks.
I ended up buying a new one, having paid £25 for a 2nd hand, but in uk it was £75.
SteveR

Thanks SteveR --- i'll take yr advice and let you guys how things go..

chigo wrote:Thanks guys for your opinion --- i asked my uncle this afternoon and he too was concerned that this radweld product could end up sending some small metal particles into the engine --- that alone was enough to keep me at bay with throwing that stuff in --- MGB_GT however has made me fear throwing in that stuff.

Whoa, not looking to give anyone the Heebe Jeebies, my mechanical knowledge is basic!

It was something about Renault Engines having holes in the engine which seem to attract particles as Radweld goes through the system, these don't come back out again or something, I forget exactly what part or techincal terms, but I've gotta see my Mechanic tomorrow I'll write it down and post it, may be of use to people on here.

MGB_GT wrote:

chigo wrote:Thanks guys for your opinion --- i asked my uncle this afternoon and he too was concerned that this radweld product could end up sending some small metal particles into the engine --- that alone was enough to keep me at bay with throwing that stuff in --- MGB_GT however has made me fear throwing in that stuff.

Whoa, not looking to give anyone the Heebe Jeebies, my mechanical knowledge is basic!

It was something about Renault Engines having holes in the engine which seem to attract particles as Radweld goes through the system, these don't come back out again or something, I forget exactly what part or techincal terms, but I've gotta see my Mechanic tomorrow I'll write it down and post it, may be of use to people on here.

Have herad something too.... that stuff my block water chanells and you can end by cooking your engine... so be aware!!!

OK, the Renault Engines have a small breather valve in them, RadWeld can clog it up which can then cause the engine to overheat.

Picked up 2nd hand rad and my mechanic advised against installing so -- os off it goes back to the yard. (thank god i know the people and they have accepted to take it back)(that is how things are done in Malta )

Anywayz i am arranging to get a new rad as the 2nd hand one had a massive hit on the mesh and part of the mesh was disintegrating .... so not worth the time changing to such an old one.

Thanks for the advice guys ---

Well guys --- my 480 is 100% now.

- Cooling is 100% --> new Nissens rad and a couple of new hoses
- Idling is 100% perfect --> changed the throttle body. now water inlet is being used

Didn't use the radweld after all, and i gave back the 2nd hand rad on yr advice and my mechanics.

i average about 10.2lt per 100Km now which is the equivalent of around Lm5.00 --- i think that would translate to around 28-30mpg.

Thank you all for your advice!

Great job replacing aint it? Did it last week, cost me about 8 hours of work. (3 hours dismanteling it from an old turbocar).

Experienced by the way that you can use both the old as well as the new type radiator. The differnece is in the ventilation, but that's solvable.

Good to see the problems solved.

In fact my mechanic DID say that it gave him a mega hassle to figure out how to remove the nose cone. he resorted to his pal (the panel beater next door) and in the end according to him he still didn't manage altogether --- in anycase at the end of the day he managed to fit and hook it up -> so I'm a happy man.

I am looking for a that piece of piping that goes from the air filter to the throttle body as mine has some cracks in it. To identify it, it has a piece of metal wire around its grooves. If anybody has a spare one he feels like sending over, please PM me !

D.

Williewammes wrote:Great job replacing aint it? Did it last week, cost me about 8 hours of work. (3 hours dismanteling it from an old turbocar).

Experienced by the way that you can use both the old as well as the new type radiator. The differnece is in the ventilation, but that's solvable.

Good to see the problems solved.

Well,

I didn't encounter that many problems removing the nose cone. But it's kinda not logical how it goes. You have to remove the light clusters before removing the cone.
Removing the bumper, wich apairantly had some damages left from the previous owner, was more of a hassle.

When you more often encounter problems, try downloading the partbook and some other documentary. I found it very usefull during repairing. Till now, I never needed a Haynes manual or something, just the partbook is good enough. They are in the download section of the 480 europe website.


Good luck with it

sprung a leak in my water pump ...

Tomorrow it gets replaced...