Advice for everyone with clutch cable problems!

[Rikaitch]

At last, I have managed to get my clutch cable sorted, thanks in main to my (small) son

First and foremost, don't take the pedal off if you have a circular spring around the main pivot as opposed to the one shown in the haynes manual. It will take forever to get back in. Secondly, the large brass damper is not necessary, and if anything is a complete pain. Even Volvo admitted it wasn't needed.

I used a brake line grip and a set of mole grips to hold the inner cable out of the outer so I had more length at the pedal end to work with. The hardest part was fitting the genuine not and bolt for the pedal from Volvo, but this was because the nut was inside the pedal bracket. In the end I used a 10mm socket with a long flexible extension and a standard driver and a 15mm ring spanner to do up the cable bolt. This took my son over an hour to get the nut on, primarily because he kept dropping it!

[Big Brother]

Hmm the clutch on my Celeb is high as fuck so might have to investigate this, I have thought for a while the cable needed tightening but just haven’t got round to doing it

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[guitarcarfanatic]

I will agree. The cable is an absolute bastard to fit the pedal end! I have done 3 now and removed thepedal each time. The spring is a bastard but I lined it all up and used the pedal to twist it back into place making it tonnes easier! I ahve always managed to move my brake switch while pushing the pedal upwards to get teh cable in which is a hassle to set right. The hardest bit of this procedure is getting the cable into the cable bracket and the seconbd hardest is the bloody metal bolt that holds the brake and clutch pedal on...what a bastard to get it in while lying on your head and not having any light to line up said pedals!!!

TIP: Regrease all the bearings that are inside the pedal holes(the holes the bolt goes though!). It is good maintenance and will ensure your pedals move smoothly and unheeded

[Rikaitch]

I kept dropping the shamper cylinder that was running through both brake and clutch pedal when I went to replace them, which was a pain because I'd cleaned and re-greased before reinserting. Maybe I could clean the car before I start this!

What I will say, is if you have any problems with your clutch cable, don't bugger around with it. It's easier to replace it and make it 100% then to repeatedly reconnect the end of the cable like I have in the past 6 months. The car's running lovely now by the way.

If you don't have a small 12 year old boy to help you, you can use a 6mm TORX key to remove the seat. But even if you do have a small 12 year old boy, remove it anyway. It makes life so much easier!

[SteveR]

Take the seat out, lay on your back, and undo the nut to release the short connector arm.
No need to undo pedals etc. but it is a confined space to work in.

[chris1roll]

Take the seat out, lay on your back, and undo the nut to release the short connector arm.
No need to undo pedals etc. but it is a confined space to work in.

1992ish onwards, they changed the pedal/release arm design, which makes it much much easier to change.