Electics Advice needed as soon as possible please!!

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Dommett
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Electics Advice needed as soon as possible please!!

Post by Dommett » Sat Aug 21, 2004 3:41 pm

I've been pretty happy with myself so far - last week I fixed the electric aerial, and this afternoon, I have fixed the rear wiper, BUT I just cannot understand the Third High-Level brake light.

Image

A = I am guessing this is Negative for the brake light.
B - I am guessing this is Switched Positive for the brake light
C - Not sure if this is intended or not, It seems to be Negative, but for the wiper, it comes back out the box - anyone know why?

So - when the engine is started I get 8.3V between A and B and when I brake it goes up to 10.8V

This means it looks identical to the rear lights, that get brighter when braking.

However, when braking the rear brake lights don't get all that bright (have not checked the voltage).

So - anybody know the wires A and B are correct, what the correct voltages should be (on / braking) and why mine might be different?

Would love to finish it off this afternoon, or at least this weekend.

Thanks everybody.

As a side note - has anybody fitted an LED light (like one you might get from Halfords)?
Tom
[size=84][color=#567ACC]
Volvo S40 T4 CD (~200bhp)
Saab 9-3 SE Turbo Convertible (~230bhp)
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rpruen
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Post by rpruen » Sat Aug 21, 2004 9:05 pm

I would be happy to take mine apart and look, but it won't be all that quick. I am working 14 hour nights at the mo. If you are still stuck then I'll check, but it won't be till next week.

Richard
Car Status: Squashed :(
Now have 765 GLE 2.8 V6

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Dommett
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Post by Dommett » Sat Aug 21, 2004 9:29 pm

No worries, I packed my tools up for the night.

Let's hope somebody comes up with some good ideas tomorrow. Seems very quiet on a Saturday night - can people really afford a social life as well as a 480??!!! :lol:
Tom
[size=84][color=#567ACC]
Volvo S40 T4 CD (~200bhp)
Saab 9-3 SE Turbo Convertible (~230bhp)
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volvofox
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Post by volvofox » Sun Aug 22, 2004 10:41 am

hmm.
reminds me of my most recent job on my 480Turbo.

between the hinges of the hatchwindow the wire run , packed in "rubber " from the car body, through the outside of the car, to the window frame.


the outside rubber was gone hard by the environement and the 16 years of age. But, it looked OK.


My wiper didn't find its way home no more... by accident i found out that if i touched this 15 cm of cable bundle between body and frame... it did. ;)

I took away all the rotten rubber and found a car electricians nightmare: all cables it selves were gone hard ( the plastic insulation that is) and cracked all over.. short cutting all over like a thunder cloud. :?

I guess the UV radiation, heat and air polution did its work there.

I spend a relaxed afternoon soldering, renewing and insulating ( the plastic that closes the window frame went out well, it was a hot day)
to a satisfiing result.

-------------------------

depart from this:

try to fix a bulb of the volvo specs between the ground you found and the brake switched current..

-There is a chance the ground is no good one. (measure resistance(Multi m. in Ohm) between the ground piont at the left rear light and the guessed ground wire. )

-and there is a chance the cables inside the previous bundle rubber are "burned spagetti" like mine. (be aware of water leaks, work well overthought)

- other facts could be that the resistance of the bulb acc. to specs will kill the 8,3 volts that are over the twio leads in rest. (attention : is this also with ignition off ? don't do it than, it will drain your battery.!)

---------

one last thing :

I had only two loose cables here both with the white connectorinsulation caps.. I can't explain from here why you have 3. Some with nothing on em ?????
luck,
JPF


Nomen est Omen

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red480gt
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Post by red480gt » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:37 am

Those voltages appear too low.

The high level brake light shoould be off (0v) when not braking and 12 to 13volts when you brake. (engine running of course)

8.3 volts suggests your measuring the voltage accross something (your rear demister maybe)

The fact you have 1 wire too many is puzzling too. have you got both connections attached to your rear demister?

Best thing , 1stly is to check you have not blown a fuse while guessing what wire is what.
2ndly test each wire to a good ground (with engine off) using a multimeter on the ohms setting (Your looking for an ohm or two on your ground cable)
3rdly measure the voltage on each to a good ground and try rear window items to see if anything changes. (brake,wiper, demister)
lastly measure the voltage while moving the rear window open/shut.



check,check and triple check the codition of the wires though the main body to the rear window, ive had this on all three of my 480's as volvofox says.
Car 1 = 94 Red GT - Aircon - Leather - Leaky Boot (but happy owner) - 68k
Car 2 = 90 Black ES Turbo - been to the moon and back!
Car 3 = 96 V40 2.0SE - The family wagon

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Dommett
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Post by Dommett » Thu Aug 26, 2004 11:50 am

Thanks - I haven't been working on it since.
I disconnected the light as it needed taking to the garage, and is still in getting the bearings and engine mounts done.

Apparantly been a bitch of a job with incorrect bolts, rounded heads and missing washers all over the shot, looking like the previous owner (who had done quite a bit of work on it) seems to have broken more than he's fixed.
The bearings apparantly are worn, not due to age, but due to being fitted incorrectly, and missing a large washer(?!) The clutch is stiff because the bit on the cable is the wrong size...the list goes on.

I'm rather concerned that they're gonna give me a huge bill!!!

Anyway, what was going on to say was I will get back to it - the rubber thing at the top where the wires go into is ok, but the wires inside have their insulation damaged, looks like knife slits rather than rubber fatigue, so that may be it.
Yeah - the other thing is the Brake lights are fairly bright normally, and only get a tiny bit brighter when braking. Are they connected at all?
I agree the difference in voltage between off and on is not sufficient, I would expect 0V - 13V.
By the way - the fuses are fine (although not 100% sure if ratings are correct) and no voltage when ignition off.

However, I did learn the electric windows work even when the key is out of the ignitiion!! Should I be worried about this?

I haven't tested Ohms at all. Not sure if my demister works yet, and the rear wiper stopped working again, so all a bit iffy round the back end.
I think the rear fogs don't work either.

Is it easy to follow the cables from the back by removing trim, or do they disappear into crevaces making it difficult to trace?
Unfortunately haynes really isn't that great.

We should really get a place to post instructions for doing various jobs as and when we learn them, and build our own Haynes!!

Somebody fancy taking a car to bits for fun?
Tom
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Saab 9-3 SE Turbo Convertible (~230bhp)
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chris1roll
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Post by chris1roll » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:04 pm

the electric windows will work for a short time after you swith ign off on the later models. Edds 93 does it, mine doesn't.
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Dommett
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Post by Dommett » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:44 pm

Wow! Really?
That's pretty complicated!

I had just turned the ignition off, haven't tried it again.

My girlfriend always forgets to close her window on my T4 when we park, and I have to get back in turn the ignition etc - that is such a clever feature!
What happened to Volvo - why does my T4 not have features that the 480 did?!!!!
Tom
[size=84][color=#567ACC]
Volvo S40 T4 CD (~200bhp)
Saab 9-3 SE Turbo Convertible (~230bhp)
[/color][/size]

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Dommett
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Post by Dommett » Thu Aug 26, 2004 7:56 pm

Hey by the way, got the car back from the garage - total damage £220 (slight ouch!!) they replaced the bearings and replaced the missing engine mount bolts they found, and also they found the gearbox was missing some bolts. Thats in addition to a lot of incorrect sized bolts, and missing washers.

And they also reset the tracking geometry which was apparently "so far out" - And the end result is.....

The car feels soooo much better it's unbelievable. It steers nicely and actually feels like I'm in control!! and the gearbox seems sorted as well, smooth and always slips into gear.

I am a much happier person now it's sorted, although still plenty to do, at least it drives properly now.

Woohoo!!
Tom
[size=84][color=#567ACC]
Volvo S40 T4 CD (~200bhp)
Saab 9-3 SE Turbo Convertible (~230bhp)
[/color][/size]

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