Engine starts, then die, and will not start again

[Greengrass]

Engine starts, run for perhaps 4-5 minutes. Then just suddenly dies. And will not start again.

So it starts when it is cold, but will not start when it is getting warm.

I have changed the impulsesensor (over the crankwheel, the position sensor) and also the ignition coil modul. But the problem is the exact same.

Why does it suddenly just die? When you firts start it, the engine works well, but after 3-4 minutes starts to works a little uneven, and then just suddenly stops.

Any suggestions what the problem is? What should I check now?

[Greengrass]

Fault code 2-1-4 id est flywheel sensor signal faulty.

As I mentioned the sensor has been changed so now I looked closely at the cable, and ther was a wear farther from the connector and I could see the copper wire...

I do the work coming weekend. I inform you all.

[jamescarruthers]

Good luck!

[Greengrass]

No. That was not the problem. Back on square one.

1. Why does the code 2-1-4 comes up? You can not trust the diagnostic system?

2. I have two codes: 2-1-4 and 3-2-4 in socket 2 (fuel system), but code 3-2-4 does note exist, exept at socket 3; right side rear sensor...and so on. As it happens, code 2-1-4 is also right side rear sensor...(and the ABS bulb lights)

3. Perhaps an IAC cleaning?

4. Other suggestions?

[jamescarruthers]

Engine temp sensor to fuel injection computer?

Maybe it's not adjusting the fuel mixture correctly and is over fueling once warm.

Just a guess.

[DaveR]

My 480 went through a period of randomly cutting out - usually on a busy roundabout.
Wiggling the wires to the coil seemed to help, but didn't fix for long.
Eventually I took the coil off the metal body - I think 2 T20 torx screws (Ignition off etc).
There's some springy contacts - sort of look like )( and the coil connects into them.
Cleaned the insides of the contacts - they were quite corroded. Put in a dab of grease or something to keep the moisture out and re-assemble.
Has not cut out since. Worth trying.

Dave

[Greengrass]

1. Cleaning the coil, OK I try that a little later. You see I have already tried another coil that I know is OK (that is, the car/engine works OK), so it must be something else in my case.

2. The diagnostic fault code says 2-1-4 which is "Flywheel sensor, signal faulty". But, then again, I have already tried another flywheel sensor (that I know is OK), but getting the same code (and of course the engine dies after, lets say 5-7 minutes).

3. So there is something wrong between the sensor and the ECU? How about the electric grounding? There is a ground cable from the left top of the engine (viewing in front of the car) from that metal loop (ring). But that cable ends at the ECU connector, so I think that can´t be wrong, or?

4. Can we really trust the diagnostic box faulty codes?? When I put the plug in the socket number 2 (fuel system), I got code 2-1-4 which is OK, but I also got code 3-2-4 which doesn´t exist in socket 2, fuel system, but in socket 3, ABS (right side rear sensor). I have to say I know I have a problem with ABS, the ABS red light is lit at the dashboard(speedometer).
Or is 3-2-4 a so called hidden code under "fuel system"??

5. Have also done some OHM-meetering. Everything have the correct Ohm. Only the temperature sensor (cooling system sensor) has 908 Ohm instead of 2500+-300. Can that be the problem? This sensor has just one connector and it is on the back of the engine, behind cylinder 1. Am I right that this is the coolant temperature sensor? Should I anyway just buy a new one?

6. This evening I screwed apart the ECU to look at the circuit board (PCB) and its components. I couldn´t see there was any wrong with it, burnt components etc. It looked and smelled OK. It is a Bendix Fenix 3.2.

[glasgowjim]

Does your car when idling run for 5 or so minutes and then stop ?

Could it be something as simple a a partial vacuum forming in the petrol tank ?

If the engine cuts out then loosen the fuel cap and let air into the tank now try starting the car.

[Greengrass]

No, already tried that. Even forgot the fuel cap on the roof over night...

Normally a 400-series Volvo starts immideately summer/winter (+30 to -30 Celcius) with no hesitation. And then idle just fine.

Now, even to just start the engine (cold) takes some time, it caughes a lot, but eventually starts and idle fine for about 2-3 minutes.

Then it starts to idle more uneven, that is, goes down in rounds. This goes on for another 2-3 minutes.

Then after 5 maybe up to 10 minutes, it dies.

And after that, will absolutely not start, until it cools again.

[Alan 480]

which engine size spec?

there is the 'CO' adjuster on the 1700 version, maybe been tweaked / broken wire

on 2litre then maybe the throttle position sensor is broken? there are three wires to it and due to its location it gets drenched in oil from inlet manifold from breather line.

on my old 1700 somebody had already cut into the insulation to measure the resistance at different throttle openings, off-hand I can't remember settings but it is in HBOL


for what it is worth I think the one with a SINGLE wire is only for the temp gauge on the dash board, the temp sensor for ECU is a double wire jobby, my engine temp often shows 'cold' but I think just iffy multii plug on instrument binnacle, and as the speedo IS working I'd prefer to leave it alone (also come sup with 'CHECK' on oil at random so I guess all is not well in that area

but I stand to be corrected on any of above

[Greengrass]

Found it!

I ought to have figured it out much earlier though. It was the distributor cap. More precise, the middle little pin with a spring (inside the cap) in the top that brings the electicity to the rotor. It was stuck or maybe broken.

So that is why the faulty codes was "flywheel sensor". The code was more an indication what to look for.

[Alan 480]

Ah a simple fix although rather a long winded way to find it !!!

glad you are mobile again